I recently wrote a post about the Boudhanath Stupa in Kathmandu and decided to add to the sacred sites in Kathmandu series with this Swayambunath Stupa Travel Guide! Swayambhunath is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in all of Nepal. It is located at the top of a forested hill in the northwest area of the Kathmandu Valley. It offers great panoramic views of the city, rich cultural experiences, and great wildlife spotting- of monkeys!
The monkeys at the Swayambhunath Stupa can be pretty naughty and will take your food, so beware! Otherwise, the monkeys are super cute and playful with each other, especially the little ones. The best place to spot monkeys is around the base of the main entrance. The main entrance is located on the eastern side and is the best way to access the stupa. You won’t have to pay the entrance fee until you reach the top of the hill where the stupa stands. Currently, the fee is 200 rps per person for tourists. It’s not that much compared to other sites around Kathmandu and evens out to just around $2.
Entering through the eastern entrance does mean a bit of a climb. There are over 300 stairs leading to the hilltop, but there are plenty of chances to stop along the way. The souvenir vendors along the steps offer great handmade products, but I recommend you wait until the end of your visit to purchase anything. There are several shops at the top with more options.
Once you have reached the stupa, take a look at the view. The city looks far bigger from above! Then walk around the stupa clockwise. You will probably see people spinning the prayer wheels set around the white washed base. They are spun to get good karma and to fight away evil. They are always spun clockwise because the mantra, or prayer, is written in that direction across the sky. It is said that prayer wheels can give the same effect as reciting and reading the whole mantra!
You may also see a type of prayer wheel on a rod that is held in the hand. The prayers are rolled up and encased inside. The practitioner then spins it clockwise while reciting prayers. The prayer wheels are very important to Tibetan Buddhists, but there is also another symbol you will most definitely see all across Kathmandu- prayer flags. Most Buddhists in the city hang them up on their houses. They are also strung down both the Swayambhunath and Boudhanath stupas. They are normally made up of 5 colors in order: Blue, white, red, green, and yellow. Each color represents a part of earth and nature. Typically the prayer flags are used to spread happiness, one of the important aspects of Buddhism. The mantras, or prayers, are printed on them in tiny letters and may not be visible at first sight. As the wind blows, the prayer flags spread the positivity and happiness.
There are several other things to see and notice at the stupa, one of them being the eyes painted at the base of the pinnacle. They are looking out over all 4 sides and some say they are the watchful eyes of Buddha himself. Also be sure to take a good look at the Hariti temple. It is a small gilded and shiny pagoda northwest of the main entrance. It is hard to miss as there are often people there asking for blessings. Hariti is an important deity in Kathmandu and is often referred to as the healing deity. She originally helped cure smallpox, but now people believe that Hariti can cure any disease or sickness. You aren’t allowed to take pictures of the temple from the front or inside, but from the back is fine.
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Legend of the stupa
Kathmandu Valley was once a big lake. This is scientifically proven, but also has a part in the legends of the Swayambhunath stupa. Swayambhu literally means “self-built” or “self-existent.” There are several legends that all have to do with the lake that used to cover the valley. One is that the hill on which the stupa sits was an island in the lake. Buddha blessed it and said that it was a good stupa. Then the lake was drained and the stupa was accessible by humans. The other legend says that a perfect lotus flower once appeared on the lake and transformed into the stupa. Lotus flowers are symbols of purity for Buddhists which is how the second legend also confirms the importance of Swayambhunath Stupa.
There is another interesting legend about why the monkeys are at the stupa. It is said that the deity Manjushri who spent quite a bit of time on the hill was supposed to cut his hair short, but let it grow instead. As a result of growing his hair, he got head lice. That lice then turned into the monkeys you see at the stupa today.
Where to eat
Probably the best place to grab a quick lunch near the Swayambhunath Stupa is at the few local eateries at the base of the main eastern entrance. Otherwise, there isn’t much at the top of the hill where the stupa stands. There are, however, several shops at the top and along the way to purchase souvenirs.
Accommodation
We were in the Kathmandu Valley for over 1 month. We rented in apartment in Patan, so we don’t have much advice on places to stay near the Swayambunath Stupa. One of the best rated hotels nearby is the Swayambhu Guest house. It is more than a 10 minute walk away, but offers a rooftop with great views of the temple complex and stupa on the hill.
How to get to the stupa
The easiest way to get to the stupa is via taxi. It is just 3 kilometers from Thamel and can be walked, but taking a taxi is much quicker and easier. After your visit there will most likely be taxis waiting at the base, so it’s easy to get to and from. On your way to the stupa be sure to tell your taxi driver to take you to the eastern entrance, also called Swoyambhu Bhagwan Pau. There are other entrances, but the eastern one is best for seeing monkeys. If you really want to avoid the climb, there is an entrance on the other side where you can drive most of the way up.
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